This is my friend Ben.. he’s not around anymore, but he’s close. I filmed him here riding the hollow wooden surfboards he constructed from cedar in various lengths & shapes. I believe it was 1999 when he made his 1st cedar mid-length. The one xps board you see him riding was a 12’ 6” he shaped for himself.
These cedar & epoxy resin boards were on the heavy side, typically with flatish to moderate rockers that lent themselves to smooth rail to rail transitions & eye watering down the line speed. He was particularly fond of a 6’5”with a fin box that he rode as a twin fin (pictured here). I stow this board among the ones I usually ride but I don’t ride it.
While living on Long Beach Island in the late 90’s & early 2000’s I had the good fortune of surfing tons of empty waves & catching fish with @ajg_lbi and Ben. I shot a lot of 16mm & Hi8 during this time period and it’s ended up to be somewhat of a film diary that I’ve kept mostly to myself…grainy lens flared images of stripers being fileted on newsprint, ripping down cedar 2×4’s, Drew fitting salvaged mahogany planks onto his board dubbed “the mahoganator”, 10 lb dumbbells & piles of tile used to weigh down freshly epoxy-tacked deck planks on wooden boards and the classic, vacant, and cold LBI surf in which they were ridden.
The dopamine factory that is social media aside, there is something to sowing a digital memory into the borderless non-space of the internet; technomancy perhaps, a veritable message in a bottle bobbing around the electronic ether.. I hope it finds you well brother, and waiting for the next set.
#woodensurfboard #longbeachisland #alanwatts